Saturday, July 5, 2008

Burgers: A Love Story


Since the onset of warm weather, every night when I walk home from work, I am wrapped in the heavenly aroma of grilling burgers on rooftops and back bar patios. By the time I get home and walk Ollie, my mouth is watering and I am craving a fat, juicy, burger with all the fixings. To be quite honest, I never really liked burgers growing up. I was always more of a hot dog kind of a gal. Burgers were always dry, mealy, chewy, and greasy with nothing more than a strong oily meat flavor – that could have been just about anything. My parent’s are both burger lovers. They loved to dive into a greasy burger from any corner burger joint, meaty juices and cheese dripping down their chins, as their arteries quickly harden. I would, on occasion, partake in a burger but it was always followed with vast disappointment and a queasy stomach. I did reach a point in high school where if I poured enough BBQ sauce or ketchup and had several layers of cheese and tomatoes, it was almost fairly decent. And considering I was from the land of the In & Out Burger, this was greatly disappointing.

A few years ago while living in Athens, GA, I conceded to making burgers for a grill out at my house. Now usually, I would make roasted pork loin, steaks, or chicken. However, Rachel (my old roommate from GA and still one of my bestest, closest friends) and I had about 17 people coming to our little apartment patio for dinner. It was a small dinner invite that grew and doubled in size within a few hours – something that became a trend as the years went on. Not having a ton of money and realizing that we had much more than meat we had to sling at these people for dinner, we weren’t sure what we were going to do! We went shopping and discovered something quite amazing at the store… ground beef is really cheap! Even the really lean beef is cheap! And right then and there, burgers and I began a beautiful friendship that has developed fiercely over the past 5 years and I can even say it… yes, we’re in love!

Our relationship began as most relationships do, sort of stumbling through the preambles and trying to get to know each other better. I stuck to the basics, garlic salt, Worchester sauce, and onion powder – this seemed to be something I saw my mother do to a burger once. Then our love grew bolder. I started using fresh garlic and onion, a dash of soy sauce, sometimes even a little red wine. I’d wrap the luscious concoction around a thick slice of feta or Gouda and roll my eyes as molten cheesy goodness came oozing out. I’d play daringly with the meat mixture, mixing it with chorizo, Italian sausage and sometimes, or do dare I even admit it – silky, delicious, ground veal! I started making my own condiments, spicy ketchup mixtures, and sweet, spicy mustard relishes. Burgers and I were falling madly and deeply in love.

My burgers were getting rave reviews at cookouts and on vacations, but none so lovely of accolades as at the beach. I’m quite sure everything tastes better at a beautiful beach house, but when I finally created the perfect burger recipe, it was at an adorable pink beach house in Tybee Island, GA, a couple years back. They are still talked about to this day! And as my friend Jeff’s brother Dave (my designated grill master) said, “Chef, you done good!” as he wolfed down two.

The brainchild for this delicious burger had come down to 3 things:

1. I had to be able to make the meat mixture up a day ahead of time because I wanted to be able to pack it and bring it to the beach house – over 5 hours away – for an easy dinner that same night.

2. It had to be a mixture that would keep the meat moist, but not be so over marinated that you couldn’t taste the meat any more.

3. It had to be damn good!

I stared at the enormous poundage of meat (enough for 16 people to have seconds) in the huge mixing bowl before me. I sighed my “thinking” sigh- which actually does help me think by the way, and started raiding the pantry and fridge. Thus, an amazing burger was born:

Nicole’s "Oh My God These Are Good" Burgers
2 lbs lean ground sirloin or chuck
½ red or sweet onion
1½ jalapeños, seeded
3 large garlic cloves, peeled
Sea Salt & Fresh Ground Pepper
½ cup of Signolia’s Balsamic Vinaigrette** (or some other balsamic vinaigrette that isn’t too sweet)

In a food processor, finely chop the onion, jalapeno, and garlic together until it’s still recognizable, but in small little shreds. In a large bowl add the veggie mixture, meat, salt, pepper, and dressing. With your hands, gently mix the meat until everything is well distributed. Allow this to marinate at least 30 minutes and up to 1 day ahead.

I can get about 8 good size patties out of 2 lbs, but you can make them as big or small as you like. Grill them over a medium-high heat for about 3 – 4 minutes on each side, that will put them about medium rare – which is how I like it! Throw whatever cheese floats your boat on top of them when they only have about 1 minute left. Let them rest for about 2 minutes and then serve them up!

You can do a myriad of fun toppings and other fabulous manipulations to this. Here are a couple flavor combos for ya:

1. Goat cheese and roasted red peppers. Skip melting the cheese on the burger, and spread goat cheese on the bun and top the burger with drained, roasted peppers.

2. Caramelized onions and a red pepper mayo. Cook down a bunch of sliced onions in a little EVOO until nice and golden; add about a tablespoon of brown sugar and cook down a minute more until caramelized. In a food processor, swirl about a ½ cup of drained, roasted red peppers and ¾ cup of mayo, add some salt and pepper to taste and serve all together on a good burger!

3. Stuff that bad boy! Get some good cheese! No, I mean, really good cheese. Extra sharp cheddar, smoked Gouda, Greek feta, jalapeno jack… cheese that is sold at a cheese counter – not already pre-sliced! Cut a thick round or square of cheese, about 2 – 3 inches wide, squared, and about a 1/3 of an inch thick. Mold the burger around it and throw it on the grill. Trust me – it’s divine.

4. The Bleu burger. Buy some good quality bleu cheese about 4 - 6 ounces, mix it up with some good salty butter (at room temp), about 4 Tbsp, and a minced garlic clove. Mold it into a log with plastic wrap and freeze it for a while until hard but not frozen solid. Cut it into 1/3-inch thick disks and again, mold the burger right around it. It’s out of this world. This is also good stuffed in a steak or just sitting on top of one!

This weekend Burgers and I reached a new height in our relationship… chicken burgers. A year or so ago, my lovely friend Charlotte – who is this amazing chef and food stylist and will some day probably be running food network or Food and Wine Magazine, I have no doubt oh, go to her website... it's awesome www.emulsionfoodphotography.com – made these delicious chicken burgers at our company’s grill out. Much how I approached beef burgers, the chicken burger and I had to flirt across the room at each other as I hmmed and hawed on whether or not I wanted a closer look. After much consideration, and generally how I make all my romantic decisions, I decided what the hell? They were divine! Moist, flavorful, and downright unchicken like! Her secret ingredient??? BBQ sauce! And that was it!

So, given that it was July 4th on Friday I too wanted to grill out. I had a good friend coming that doesn’t eat red meat, but I wanted juicy burgers so I decided to give Charlotte’s chicken burgers a whirl – with my own little tried and true recipe intermingled as well of course. I shot her an email and asked what her ratio of chicken to BBQ sauce was and this was her response in fabulous Charlotte style, “Hmmmm...Can't remember the exact ratio, just mix it in till it's super sticky and it feels like they will never make a burger, and they're ready. They'd probably be good with some spices and what not... you know what to do!” And boy, was she right! As I suspected, it was hands down delicious! I served it with organic whole-wheat buns, thick slices of sharp cheddar, a side salad and some BBQ chips… oh and a nice cool pitcher of Mojitos. It was 4th of July perfection.

Slammin’ BBQ Chicken Burgers
2 lbs ground chicken
½ red or sweet onion
1½ large jalapeños, seeded
3 large garlic cloves, peeled
2 tbsp of brown sugar
Sea Salt & Fresh Ground Pepper
½ cup or so of your favorite BBQ Sauce (this is something I will be doing some experimentation on)

In a food processor, finely chop the onion, jalapeño, and garlic together until it’s still recognizable, but in small little shreds. In a large bowl add the veggie mixture, meat, salt, pepper, brown sugar and BBQ Sauce. With your hands, mix together the meat until the ingredients were well distributed. Charlotte was right, the mixture is sticky, super moist, and pretty goopy. My friend Rachel said to me, as I was mixing and she was adding the BBQ sauce, “Wow, that looks pretty disgusting. I think it’s done.” And she was right. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate 30 minutes to 1 day in advance.

I found it easier to form the patties right at the grill and then put them on to my medium-high grill, they were too sloppy to pre-make. Cook for 6 minutes on each side. Add a thick slice of sharp cheddar cheese to the burgers with only a minute to go. Let them rest for 1 – 2 minutes and serve them on up.

I have a feeling that I’ll be playing a lot with chicken burgers over the next few months… ah, burgers – will the love ever end??

** I prefer Signolia’s Balsamic Dressing for about a 100 reasons, I could actually drink it straight out the bottle it’s so dang good. But specifically, I like that it’s tangy, has a nice spice blend, it’s not super sweet, and uses liquid amino for the saltiness – it’s a good balance! I highly recommend trying it… on everything!

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Italian Chopped Salad, My New Obsession


I have a tendency to go through food phases... or maybe obsessions is a better word for it.  I will crave a certain food or ingredient and it's as though I can't get enough of it.  I'll put it in everything, eat it everyday... I become insatiable!  Lately my new obsession has been Italian tuna in olive oil.
Now don't get me wrong, I've been eating Italian and Spanish tuna for a few years now and consider myself a tuna snob.  And I will say, one bite of high quality tuna and you'll never eat any other kind of tuna again!  I regularly turn up nose to plain ol'albacore in water, and god forbid I see chunk light in anything but a cat food bowl.  But lately my love for fine quality tuna has been revived.  I think it's the onset of nice weather, bringing about thoughts of tomatoes and avocados - perfect for stuffing good tuna salad inside, with a nice glass of chilled white wine.  
The last few weeks my tuna fixation has morphed into a chopped tuna salad obsession.  It's so easy on a week night, since truly I just throw in anything I have in my pantry and crisper!  Today I was at the store and all I could concentrate on was the numerous combinations of chopped salad I can make with the ingredients I was buying.  My little cart was piled high with lettuce greens, grape tomatoes, mushrooms, hearts of palm, garbanzo beans, cucumbers and on and on and of course cans and cans of tuna!
So here it is, my new favorite food obsession...

Italian Chopped Salad
Serves 2 as an entree or 4 as a side

1/2 bag of RTS Lettuces (I likes ones with arugla)
Large handful of Grape or Cherry tomatoes, halved
5 Mushrooms, sliced or quartered
1/2 cup Garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1/3 cup Heart of Palm, chopped
1 can Italian Tuna in olive oil, drained and lightly flaked
1/2 cup frozen Petite Peas
Homemade Croutons or 1 cup store bought
1/3 cup Nicole's No-Fail Vinaigrette, or favorite store bought

Toss together all ingredients into a big bowl.  Cover lightly and put in the fridge for 30 minutes and serve!  
Other fine additions:  cucumbers, carrots, hard boiled eggs, cannelli beans, olives, roasted red peppers... it goes on and on! 

Homemade Croutons
If you've never made homemade croutons, you're really missing out.  They're super easy and soooooo good!

1/2 lb good quality bread, cut into 1/2 in squares
1/3 cup Olive Oil
2 tsp Gourmet Seasoning Salt (I like an italian or Mediterranean blend)
1 tsp Garlic Powder
1/2 tsp Hot Pepper Flakes

Heat oven to 350 degrees.  In a large bowl or pan sprinkle dry seasonings over the bread and toss well.  Lightly drizzle 1/3 of the olive oil over the bread mixture and toss, repeat until you've used most of the olive oil and bread seems well coated, but not swimming.  Bake on a cookie sheet, or I like to use my pizza stone, for about 35 - 45 minutes or until crisp.  While their baking, give them a toss and turn now and then.
 
Nicole's No-Fail Vinaigrette
I love making my own dressings.  They're so fast and delicious and they can change depending on my ingredients and tastes!

1/2 shallot, minced
2 tsp high quality Dijon or specialty mustard
1/4 cup Champagne Vinegar (apple cider, red wine, sherry - any of these are great too)
1/3 cup good quality Olive Oil
Gourmet Seasoned Salt to taste (one with good spices that you enjoy)
Fresh Ground Pepper to taste
Sugar Substitute or Caster's Sugar to taste

Whisk together shallot, mustard, vinegar, olive oil and then taste it.  Add your pepper, salt, and sugar and keep tasting until you hit the levels of sweet and salty that you and your family enjoy.  I tend to like mine a little more acidic than sweet, but that's just me!  Then let it sit for about 10 minutes at room temperature to allow the flavors to meld.



Sunday, April 13, 2008

Union Sq. Green Market: A Different Kind of Green



There is nothing I love more than walking Ollie down to the Union Square Green Market to fondle beautiful vegetables on a Saturday afternoon.  Yesterday was warm, breezy, overcast, yet a perfect day for perusing the market.  My lovely friend Rachel met us there in the early afternoon and we were off for a gastronomic adventure!

It had a been a couple weeks since I was last at the market and I could not believe how it had grown... almost quadruple in size!  It wrapped and snaked all through the park a good solid 3 blocks.  How fantastic!  My mouth began to water with the anticipation of spring ramps, asparagus, artichokes, greens, and so much more.  Much to my dismay... it was still the same selection of produce that had been there for the past several months, parsnips as large as my arm, onions, carrots, potatoes, a sad selection of apples.  And even more disappointing the Honey Crisp Apple that has renewed my interest in apples - and the only apple I would spend $4/lb for - has finally come to the end of its season.  

Rachel and I sifted through apples and pears trying to find our week's snacks, discussing the oddness of the Little Lady Apple, roughly the size of a golf ball.  Rachel was far more intrigued than I, and she bought a bag.  I was pleased that I hadn't bought any when we shared one while pushing through the crowds; they were too mealy for my taste.  Our vegetable and fruit adventure was cut short when we realized that the spring produce we were salivating for still hadn't arrived.  However we found something that excited us just as much... PLANTS.  Beautiful spring flowering plants, tomato plants, herb plants, plants that her and I hadn't seen since leaving the lush neighborhood gardens of Georgia.  Even Ollie was intrigued as he licked water off the leaves and buried his little nose in primrose and crocus blooms. 

We became obsessed!  We spent more time evaluating cherry tree branches with tiny buds from this stand and that stand than we had about anything else all day.  Rachel finally settled on some beautiful willow branches and then moved her obsession to house plants.  As we tossed around what plants would do well in a dark New York apartment with only an hour of light a day, I spotted a gem across the way.  A big, beautiful, lone tomato plant in a two gallon pot with a "$10" sign sticking out was calling my name.  I snatched up Ollie and weaved my way through the on coming people and staked my claim.  It was the last one and it was mine!  All mine!  I could just taste the fresh tomato sandwiches, gazpacho, and tomato basil salads soon to be in my future.
  
The smell of the gorgeous tomato plant had intoxicated me.  I asked the nice man who was reshuffling plants around what kind of tomato plant my new found love was.  He looked at me like I was off my rocker.  "Tomato," he replied.

"Of course, but what kind of tomato?" I asked again with a big smile.
 
"Uh, it's a patio tomato," he said and then quickly walked away.
 
A patio tomato??  Was this some sort of new type of heirloom tomato or was it just a location for me to grow it?  I imagined a tomato that would only be comfortable on a plain burger or sandwich with white bread and processed cheese.  But you know what, I didn't care.  Whatever kind of tomato, patio and now roof, it was going to be wonderful in about three or four weeks!

Rachel and I wandered through the rest of the market, me with Ollie and my new huge plant, and her with her willow branches, tiny apples and new houseplant and talked of our big dreams of having our rooftop garden for the summer.  Even though we didn't get what we went there for, we felt accomplished in our quest for lush vegetation and good food.

My top picks from the Farmer's Market
1.  Shallots - in rare form this week
2.  Herb Plants - especially the 3 for $6 deal that I kept seeing
3.  Tomato Plants - besides the Patio variety, they also had Brandywine which is the creme de la creme of heirlooms!
4.  Fresh yogurt and milk - need I say more??
5.  House plants - gorgeous and cheap, but inspect for bugs first
6.  $5 4-foot Willow Branch Bunches - sooooo pretty in a vase
7.  Savory Scones - we all agreed that it was delish... even Ollie!

Things to Pass On
1.  Little Lady Apples, for $1.50/lb - just get a whole apple
2.  Parsnips - they shouldn't be as big as my arm
3.  Fig Trees - unless you want to invest the decade it will take it to bear fruit, and not to mention the ground that it should be planted in
4.  $22 "Mixed Herb Pots" that only had 3 little sad herbs in them - make your own for $6 down the way

BTW:  My new tomato plant is very happy in it's new home on my rooftop.  Ollie and I visit it several times a day.